So far...

Namaste everyone. Welp, I'm writing from an internet cafe in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand India, the renowned "yoga capital of the world". After a marathon 26 hours worth of plane rides, 40+ hours with no real sleep, a 240 km journey by taxi through Delhi and Haridwar, I made it here in one piece. I flew into Delhi (which comprises Old Delhi (north) and New Delhi (south)) and was set up with a taxi service from the airport. The driver drove me to a hotel that he assured me was very nice and a good deal. I'm not saying he's a liar, but... Anyway, after arriving at the fairly dirty hotel, I was immediately offered drugs, alcohol, and prostitutes by the friendly attendant, which I begrudgingly declined. After about 5 hours of sleep and a cold shower, I was ready to get the hell out of there. Delhi is supposedly the most polluted city on Earth, which is comforting, because I would hate to see anything more polluted than this. During the day, the sun is completely obscured by smog, and the streets are filled to the brim with a wide variety of characters, some friendly, some not so much (there are 16 million altogether in Delhi).

I took a taxi to Rishikesh, which was about 7 hours away (though only about 175 miles or so). The ride was very expensive by Indian standards (about 125 dollars), but it was worth it, and I quickly got over the fact that I was most likely getting majorly ripped off. I got to see some nice countryside after leaving the sweltering stench of the city (which reeked almost unbearably of feces in many places, and which, if stopped even momentarily on the highway, young children would lean into your window and beg for change, not letting go until the speed of the car severed their hungry grips. On the way, there were all kinds of dogs, goats, cows, and monkeys in and around the road, which was the size of a very narrow 1-laner by American standards, and the driver was constantly having to muscle his way in and around smaller taxis, bicyclists, pedestrians, pilgrims, and cow-lead carts, carrying fruits, vegetables, and other goods. The sound of horns is something you quickly get used to, and as my driver from the airport quipped "in India you can drive without brake, but not horn". My taxi driver spoke no English whatsoever, which was fine by me, because it gave me a chance to relax, and enjoy the beautiful countryside. As we got closer to Rishikesh, I noticed more and more people crowding the streets, and a huge traffic jam ensued. Rishikesh is about 25 km from Haridwar (a major pilgrimage site), and it took roughly 2.5 hours to travel the distance. I learned later that this time of year is the Siva/Shiva Festival, which attracts many millions of Indians, who make a pilgrimage through 5-6 major holy spots, including Haridwar, and, unfortunately Rishikesh for one month every year, carrying 2 buckets of Ganges River water all along the way, to whatever their destination spot may be.

When we finally got to Rishikesh, it was just as crowded and polluted as Delhi, much to my dismay. It wasn't until 3 days later that I learned this would soon be over, and the city would return to its normal, tranquil state. I had planned to stay at the Yoga Niketan Ashram, which I'd previously read about, but wanted to stay in their guesthouse first, which is slighty more luxurious (though not much), and does not require you to adhere to all the ashram rules. I took a walk through the city to explore, and it was the most crowded place I've ever been, not to mention I was the only non-Indian, in huge a sea of chaos. I was stared at by everyone, and felt pretty nervous and uncomfortable initially, though that has quickly worn off. I was asked by a few children to pose for pictures with them and many people would smile and say hello. I imgaine I was probably the first American many of these children have seen. Everyone seems to be wearing orange shirts with a picture of Krishna (deity from the Bhagavad Gita) as well as fanny packs, so I feel kind of out of place. I bought some local garb, which is very comfortable and light, and which I plan to wear exclusively from now on. After one night in the guest house, I was ready to go to the more quiet and secluded ashram, which is just across the main road from the guesthous, though about 300-400 feet higher in the Himalayas, and quite a workout. I guess I didn't mention that the city is right on the Ganges River, which is absolutely amazing, and at the foothills of the Himalayas, which are shockingly beautiful. People bathe in the river constantly, something I have not yet tried, though I imagine I will once things quiet down a bit.

I got to the ashram 2 days ago (though it seems like weeks already), and was received warmly. The grounds are inescribably beautiful, with all kinds of exotic vegetation, and huge swarms of playful monkeys running around, who will even go into your room if you're not careful. All of the employees and teachers are Indians, though everyone staying there is either Korean, American, British, Australian, or some other kind of European. It costs about $12 a day to stay, which includes your room, 3 meals, and 4 classes (2 yogasana, and 2 meditation) each day. Quite a bargain. The room is pretty modest, but I am actually growing to like it quite a bit. The bed is as hard as the floor (which I'm used to, because I've been sleeping on the floor for the past 7-8 months). I took my first "bucket bath" yesterday, and it was refreshing after the ridiculously intense 6:30 am yogasana class (for those who don't know, asanas are yoga postures, but "yoga" itself encompasses much more than just the postures). The daily schedule is as follows:

Morning Bell: 4:30am
Meditation: 5:00 am
Yogasana: 6:30 am
Breakfast: 8am
Library study: 9:30 am
Lunch: 12pm
Library study: 2pm
Lecture: 3:15pm
Tea: 4pm
Yogasana: 5pm
Meditation: 6:30pm
Dinner: 8pm

Repeat, but no classes on Sunday.

The days seem like weeks, but I am feeling amazing so far, and shutting myself off from normal activities, desires and acquaintances is very liberating. Much more time to focus on what I came here for, which is self and spiritual improvement, and I am feeling very at peace and quiet-minded thusfar. The asana classes are incredibly challenging, even compared to what I'm used to, and I imagine I will be quite a bit better if I stay long enough. The physical exhaustion does help quiet the mind though, and the relaxation that ensues after is incredibly blissful. There are 2 asana teachers, one in the morning, and one in the evening, and both are the most impressive people I have ever witnessed in person. The effortlessness with which they do the impossible poses, while still teaching and keeping a steady breath is remarkable. The meditation classes are very nice, though I cannot understand a single word the meditation guru says when starting the class, due to his soft voice and heavy accent. The point is that you basically force yourself to sit still and relax for over an hour twice a day, and though it's challenging, you basically feel like you've just taken a huge dose of morphine after.

Despite warnings, I have not gotten sick at all so far, and the food has been very good. All vegetarian, and fairly bland by Indian standards, but you get as much as you want, and it is very nourishing. Usually porridge and tea for breakfast, some sort of lentil/bean/pea/rice combination with bread and maybe some rice pudding for both lunch and dinner, but I haven't been here long enough to really tell. I expected there to be all kinds of long-dedicated spiritual masters here, but most people seem to be just like me, 20-40 somethings just exploring this kind of thing for the first time, and from what I can tell, no one has been here for more than a month, so I'll do my best to be one of the first. I have signed up for the 15-day minimum stay, though I could see myself staying for a very long time. The beauty of everything is just so magnificent, and it's been a very liberating experience so far. I really like the anonymity of everything, and don't feel I need to act a certain way or try to impress anyone at any time, which is very nice. I haven't shaved for a week, which is the longest I've ever gone, and though it looks ridiculous, I imagine I'll have a pretty magnificent beard/moustache in a few months, and some hilarious looking long hair. The other people staying here are very friendly, and I've met about 5 people from all around America, 5-6 Koreans, a Dutch girl, a Chilean fellow, and a couple of Aussies, as well as some people I can't remember. I think there are about 30 people who participate in the daily activities altogether. If I get weary of this place, there are about 20 other major ashrams around the city, so I will probably give them a try before departing, whenever that may be. I also have contact information for Swami Yogeshwarananda, the Swami who recently visited Tallahassee, so I may try to find him once I become more established in meditation and yoga, and may try to become a more serious student, but we shall see. Right now everything is pretty self-directed, but it is easy to have discipline with no temptations around.

Wow, I can't believe how much I just wrote. I'm sure I'm leaving all kinds of things out, but next entry I will try to be a little more discerning, and will hopefully have more things of interest to report (though it may be awhile til I write again). Hope everyone is doing well in America. May peace be with you all and God Bless!

Love,
Adam